NEWFOUNDLAND: A Love Letter
Fortune Bay, South Coast
After the Trip
I'd come so far, I wanted to spend a day or two looking around the
area. Harbour Breton was the closest place with a motel, and it was at
the very end of Rt 360, the road that runs through the interior, so I
the view of the harbor, from the motel. The ocean is to the
and behind me. That island in the middle has a trail that goes to the
top, Gun Hill. That's where I took the first photo on this page.
is 2/3 of the way up the hill, looking back down at the trail. I think
it's the Newfoundland version of a stress test. No time wasted on
Here's a view from the
top. Pretty much any direction you turn, it's amazing.
looking out toward the
The town, nestled
behind barrier dunes and mountains.
were other trails in the area. This one skirted the barrier dunes and
traveled across a high bog filled with cotton grass, sedges, and
pitcher plant is the official provincial flower of
Newfoundland-Labrador. I think it's a marvelous choice, a plant that
adapted to life on rock and bog with little nourishment.
The road to/from
Harbour Breton is pretty stunning too. This sort of view goes on for
miles and miles.
I wish I could have stayed for weeks, for months (which is what it
take to explore, since the roads are so bad, when there are roads at
all), discovering one fantastic place after another.
After I returned home, I had a conversation with a friend who gave
voice to what so many have brought up: "It's
clear that you have to be very comfortable being alone. Really alone."
In answering her, I finally clarified for myself what is the
feeling of traveling solo. "I suppose that in terms of human company,
that's true. But honestly, I didn't feel alone at all. The whole world
was there. Waves held their incoming-splash conversations, wind butted
in and tried to snatch stuff away, a whole flock of chickadees gave
their opinion of my campsite (didn't like it one bit), rocks felt like
old old friends that I could always count on. The sky brought around
clouds, stars, the full moon for visits. It seems like the longer I'm
out there, the more I feel the good company of all things."
This is the gift that awaits the solo traveler: the good company of all
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