Sunday morning greeted me with hordes of mosquitoes. There was no question of cooking a breakfast. I ate some fruit and cheese and an energy bar and packed up, draped with the bug net. Early morning is a kayaker's best friend - winds are usually at their lowest, conditions calmer. There was a bold coast to get by between Black Duck Cove and Louse Harbor. I'd watched waves smash into it all the prior afternoon, spray exploding into the air 20, 30 feet. I wanted to get to it early. The hungry mosquitoes followed me, necessitating paddling while wearing the bug net, for at least the first mile.

The ocean was calm, wind blowing in the opposite direction from the prior day, and the passage to Louse Harbor easy. The harbor itself is pretty and offers camping possibilities, protected from rough weather. Continuing on, out and around the next point and then into Port Howe, a deep harbor which provides a back way around Dover Island.



Absolutely no camping possibilities here as best I could tell. I stopped here for a snack, looking out across the mouth of the harbor. Wind was picking up, the water rougher. I had no idea where I'd be staying that night. As I looked at the chart I realized that Whale Island was directly across from me, a little under a mile away. I came upon mention of this island while I was researching the trip. It had a very interesting recent history, as recorded in "On Whale Island: Notes from a Place I Never Meant to Leave". This I had to see.




Whale Island was beautiful - massive folds of white granite with a patina of yellow-orange lichens, clear blue water, rough breakers on the seaward side but calm on the inland side. There were multiple camping opportunities. I circumnavigated the island to see everything I could about it - the little house standing unused in the seaward cove, the high lookout which seemed inaccessible. Clapotis made chaos of the water rounding the outer coast - I was glad to return to the quiet of the inside passage and choose a campsite.



Then I was free to enjoy the day in the sun, and explore on foot.



I was so lazy!



Orange lichens adorning the rocks



How could I not feel safe on an island with these rocks protecting me?!



next page